FROM THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

I PROMISED A POSTING FROM FRANCE; so here goes.
First, thank you, Glenn for your comment.
I have been here for two weeks now (almost), writing on Friday morning July 20. After arriving in Paris (CGA) two weeks ago in the morning, I made my way to my train connection, lugging my suitcase containing the bike and my soft luggage (attached to the suitcase by bungee cords) up and down stairs with lots of help from Parisians to catch a crowed train to Toulouse. Quite an experience, sitting one's suitcase watching the world wizz by at 200 kph!
At Toulouse, I found my way to the Metro (more stairs) and then to the Youth Hostel for my two nights and one day in this very pleasant city (fourth largest in France) where everything is so compressed compared with the US (I refer to streets and houses). Sunday saw me off early with the weather fine and warming. Coffee and pain au chocolat for breakfast some 17 km down the road and soon I entered the Valley of the River Leze, catching glimpses of the distant Pyrenees at turns on the road. The day warmed and the slight wind was in my face, so I drank lots of water and an occasional beer or two at the lovely little towns along the way.
It was steady going with gradual ascent as the mountains drew nearer. The total distance was to be 112 km but my average speed took a dip by the time I had reached Le Mas d'Azil, some 77 km from Toulouse where I crossed from one valley to the next. In this area there is a large cave that has been used as a refuge over the centuries by several groups (hence the name, which means 'house of refuge'. Nowadays it is a park where both the river and the road go through the mountain from one valley to the next.
It was not too long to Saint Girons with the ride becoming easier. There I stopped for a beer and called my hosts. Just 12 km to go; no sweat I though to my self. In fact, after the village of Moulis, the road steepened very considerably. Now I know why my host had wished me, 'Bon courage, Robert'! For the final 3 km I mostly walked, pushing my bike along the quite narrow road. It is hard to accept that, some 15 years ago, the Tour de France competitors actually came down this steep, narrow, winding track to the finish at St. Girons...surely a suicide mission!
Altogether, due to the last 5 km or so, probably the toughest ride of my life.
I soon revived with a beer from my host. I had a quick look around, met the other wwoofer working on the far, had dinner and went to bed.
Since then, dear Mates, it has been farm work: digging, haymaking, weeding (being an organic farm, there is a constant war on weeds) and the occasional visit to neighbors and friends, some of whom appear to be serial murderers dedicated to the putting to death of wwoofers by the administration of large quantities of wine. We have since been joined by a third wwoofer and a fourth worker who is doing a second placement on the farm as part of here degree. Which is just as well, as there is lots of work to do and the days are long. However, they are punctuated by excellent meals and long conversations around the table.
Saturday and Sunday last, we went to the markets at St. Girons and at a small village called Engomer, more to the South. Here is a photo of my hostess, Jasmin. She and her husband, Erwin, have the farm. She does three markets each week

Here is the market. This market is just a small village market. They had just concluded their three day 'fete de ville' and everyone was in good spirits.

At the top of this posting, you will have seen the River Lez which runs through this village and just the other side of the line of stalls you can see here. By way of contrast, the market in St. Girons is absolutely huge, flowing in all directions away from the town square and with an abundance of local produce, vegetables, fruits, meats, cheeses, shoes and other leather work, knives, garments, and much more beside

At the local, earlier an Irish Pub, I bought Erwin a beer; then he bought me one; and then, the publican bought us each another!

Lots of people come here to retire, attracted by the simplicity of life, including Germans and English, as well as French. I love it here despite that we have had a good bit of rain up in the mountains where the farm is. In the valleys, the weather is mild and town life very charming indeed. Back to the US of A next Tuesday, after riding to Foix on the Monday and the overnight train to Paris. Oh yes, and tomorrow, I will watch the finish of the eigth stage of the Tour de France at St. Girons.